View Full Version : I FOUND a way to mimic old glass ornaments!!!!
putrid
01-03-2008, 06:24 AM
IT was right under my nose all along. And I can kick mysleff for being a complete air head. Because it's even written on the outside of the can,
"Improves the flow and gloss of oil-based paint."
In fact most oil paint is made with it.
Boiled Linseed oil.
The oil paint becomes opaque without being cloudy and the color stays intense. It's smooth and can coat in one application. It fits the bill of being something that may have been done years ago. The only draw back is how long it takes to dry. It's been almost 24 hours and the test spot is not 100% set.
I've bought all kinds of silver plastic shapes to play with. And still picking up plain silver glass balls. Does anyone know a good way to strip the color off of colored glass balls?
Bet ya'll know what the first published how to on my web site will be. LOL
Sickie Ickie
01-03-2008, 07:20 AM
Are you adding color to the oil, or using oil paint?
No idea on stripping glass balls. Is the paint on those baked on?
Have you tried clear plastic balls?
putrid
01-03-2008, 07:32 AM
Adding oil paint. Artist paints that come out of those tubes. Haven't tried clear plastic. Because it's oil base this shouldn't have any trouble sticking and staying on clear plastic or glass. I think your right about the coating on glass balls being backed on. But they always seem to 'chip' off easy enough. Be cool to be able to wash it all away at once. Then I could buy any color out there after Christmas and end up with the plain silver I'd need to paint on.
Sickie Ickie
01-03-2008, 07:55 AM
"...But they always seem to 'chip' off easy enough..." Well, there's your answer. Just hit those glass balls with a hammer and the paint should come right off! :p
putrid
01-03-2008, 08:12 AM
To tell the truth I had bought a big box of really chipped up 3 inch red glass balls at an auction over the summer. Probably paid .50 for the box of 60 or so. Was having fun tossing the worst of the bunch into a trash can when it hit me I should save them in case I found a way to clear off the red.
Sickie Ickie
01-03-2008, 08:26 AM
I can't comment, otherwise I'd have to tell you I used to get a kick breaking old clay record over my head. :D
putrid
01-03-2008, 08:44 AM
Breaking things is fun! Why do you think I work at a glass factory? JK LOL
Sickie Ickie
01-03-2008, 07:33 PM
I thought it was the elves that caused the mischief! Now I find out it was you! LOL
Xmaslilly
01-08-2008, 04:54 PM
I'm glad you found your answer ..hope to see pics soon
putrid
07-29-2008, 10:45 AM
OK, I thought this was the answer. The biggest problem with this is it's drying time AND it didn't stay shiny after drying. Plus the fact that the oil paint isn't clear therefore the silver underneath didn't shine threw like on the old glass ornaments.
I FOUND IT. I found what I've been looking for years to find. It works on glass, plastic and even looks good over silver spray paint. Although over the paint it isn't as shiny. More of a silken finish. And the best part? Anyone can get the supplies to do it!!!!!!
http://www.christmasfanclub.com/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=100
http://www.christmasfanclub.com/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=101
I almost had this when I was playing around with the plastic ornaments in a different thread. I can't believe how close I was. Magic markers AND Laqcuer. Start by scribbling a small portion of what you want to color with the marker. Then use a small paint brush dipped in lacquer to take that ink and fill the rest of the area with it. Using a paint brush larger than 1/4 of an inch will thin the ink out to fast. Your intended color will become opaic.
The plastic bow ornament with the blue is a shiny one. The other is a dull finished one. They both turned out shiny when applying the ink and lacquer. I did this to a glass ball and it MATCHES the look of a colored ball to a T!!!!!!!
And as a side note. Those two glass Santa faces I painted months ago, they're finally dry. LOL
The markers I used are Sharpie.
putrid
07-29-2008, 10:48 AM
Didn't add this to the last post. I can SEE my reflection threw the color!!!!
Sickie Ickie
07-29-2008, 11:40 AM
sharpie...any special kind of laq?
Sickie Ickie
07-29-2008, 11:41 AM
This is obviously your next how-to on the site. :)
Carrie
07-29-2008, 07:12 PM
OMG, Putrid, I don't check in here for a few days and its like the dam broke on your creativity! Those look really nice!
putrid
07-29-2008, 08:07 PM
Sickie Ickie, I'm going to do a few things with it before I make a how to. Want to get the feel of it. Not just jump into things like I did with the tree. LOL I'd like to finally get those birds done. Now I'll be able to make them look more like the old glass ones. The lacquer I'm using is,
'Deft
Clear Wood Finish
Brushing Lacquer
Gloss. '
Thanks Carrie. I went to church last Sunday. I think that helps. My brain be a spinnin with possibilities! LOL
Wouldn't ya know it. I finally make a break threw that has eluded me for years and I can't play with it. I had already made plans to spend the day with my mom. Left here a bit after 2:00 and got back around 9:30. Had a great day with her. Both of us had a good time. But now that I'm home I'm totally stoked! Trying to convince myself that it's better to get some sleep and play with this stuff in the morning. so far it's not working. LOL
I did it i did it i did it I did IT!!!!
putrid
07-30-2008, 07:02 AM
OK so I stayed up a bit last night and played with it. Very slow going when you have to color with the marker then mix with the lacquer. Still get the same great results but need to find a better way of getting the coloring and lacquer mixed. It's hard to not be sloppy when your mixing on the project your working on. Unlike the 'glass' paint I've tried in the past this dried hard and tough. I did a lot of ornaments with glass paint in the past that ended up sticking to everything and getting ruint.
When I was doing research on this I kept coming up on articles about cancer. I'm not a chemist but I do know that each color is a different chemical make up. Mixing that with an already flammable and dangerest chemical like lacquer will be dangers. This is NOT something for kinds to do. And unfortunately some adults as well. With that said...This is NO JOKE ware latex gloves when doing this. Do this in a well ventilated area. Preferably with a fan circulating the air. Ware gloves when washing all brushes.
I'm going to try to mix the ink directly in small closable containers of the lacquer. Unsure as to how yet but I know I'll be wearing thick rubber gloves. Don't want calico hands. LOL
Sickie Ickie
07-30-2008, 08:09 AM
Putrid, I wonder if you cut the end off the marker, if it is the felt stick inside?
If so, if you get a jar, put laq in it, as well as the felt stick, if then mix and let sit to leech anything out, if it will work?
You'd be left in the position of learning how much of the stick to cut to put in what size of laq container to get the best results, but it may work well.
This reminded me a little of the mad scientist lab with the florescent liquids that glow under black light. You take the felt stick from a highlighter, place it in water 'til it leeches out, then cap the water for the blacklight effect.
putrid
07-30-2008, 10:54 AM
So if I'm hearing this right and the ink glows...would the ornaments glow as well? Use a highlighter instead of a magic marker? I did not know that. That's totally cool! Wonder what a black light would look like on an aluminum tree covered with glowing ornaments....
Sickie Ickie, I was thinking about using the lacquer to leach the ink out of the inner felt of the markers. However I have no idea how much to use. I'm a guy. Put it all in there is my first thought. LOL Besides the mixes possibility of being toxic and caustic ( just a weeee bit concerned about that...) there is the breakdown point of the lacquer to consiter. How much chemical can you put in lacquer before the lacquer itself becomes useless. The more ink the lacquer can take the deeper the coloring. This would allow the folks using it to thin it out with more lacquer to get the shade they want.
I would like to point out that the caution I have comes from researching the chemicals sold to businesses to tint lacquer different colors. If these chemicals are in a magic marker they are more than likely harmless. However mixing chemicals creates new chemicals. I have no idea if the chemicals used to tint lacquer are the same chemicals used to color ink. I'm just asking ya'll to be careful based on what research I've done. Better safe than sorry.
putrid
07-30-2008, 01:52 PM
What I've done so far. Got a hand full of 3 oz closable containers. Took the innards out of one red Scripto permanent marker and put 2 oz of lacquer in. Using a paint brush handle and pliers I got as much of the ink out of the tube as possible. I drove the handle into the tube as far as I could. Will leave everything soak for a bit to see how dark the read gets. Right now I've got a nice red. But it's not as dark as the old ornaments. And it goes on smooth and looks great!
Did an experiment with the plastic ornaments I've painted last night using the lacquer and ink. Scrubbed them with a dish rag loaded with soap and water. None of the color came off. Try doing that with the glass paints you get at a craft store.
putrid
07-30-2008, 04:16 PM
OK Did some more experiments and this is what I've found so far.
1.. Works perfectly for plastic and silver spray painted objects. There is some difference in the appearance between the shiny and dull plastic.
..1A...Shiny plastic. After being painted with this you can still see your reflection in the plastic.
..1B..Dull plastic shines after being coated with this lacquer. The only real difference is you can't see your reflection in the plastic.
..1C...Silver spray paint coated with this lacquer looks more matted in it's shine. Resembling a satin glass finish.
2.. Works well on glass but will need more than one coat. May look a bit rough and uneven over large areas of the glass.
3.. You can shade the color your using right on the ornament. I've used black, green and blue to change the hues of the red lacquer. Did this by using a marker to draw a bit of the new color and then blended that into the red. These means anyone will be able to change any of the colored lacquers to different hues. Either on the ornament or by using a piece of foil to mix the color on.
I would like to share a picture of confidence. I figured I'd find a way to make silver plastic ornaments look good at some time so I bought a few on clearance last year.
http://www.christmasfanclub.com/picture.php?albumid=8&pictureid=102
I couldn't tell ya how many is there. I think I've got more somewhere. LOL
So far I have red, blue, green and yellow lacquers set up.
Sickie Ickie
07-30-2008, 08:31 PM
Glad to hear things are going well. Good to know the recipe is working!
bethene
07-31-2008, 07:23 PM
wow Putrid, sounds like you have it figured out, can't wait for formal instructions, I guess you DID get alot of silver ornaments on clearance!! the plastic bows you did look very pretty. I have a bunch of antique ornaments that I just washed and the color came off, I have them in a box just waiting to figure out what to do with them, sounds like this could be it.
putrid
07-31-2008, 08:04 PM
Bethene, to get a good deep color you'll have to make two coats on glass. One thing I've learned about lacquer is you CAN'T go over the same wet area. Ends up taking up the lacquer. Give the lacquer a day to cure before applying the second coat.
This is slow going because I'm still trying things with it. I've spray painted some plastic Santas, a wooden nutcracker and an Angel candle with silver. Taped the nut crackers face cuz I'm not that good at painting it back on. Also sanded and Gesso'd all three birds. But only sprayed the Easter egg one. Still want to get better at using the lacquer this way before I attempt painting the birds. Been saving pics of glass bird ornaments off of Ebay for inspiration. Some of em are really ugly. I think I could do those now. LOL
putrid
08-07-2008, 08:55 PM
Still learning and this stuff is just getting better. The longer the lacquer steeps with the ink the richer in color it gets. Kinda busy with some other things right at the moment so I don't have any photos. But I will let ya'll know what I've done.
3 oz flip top bottle by iGO. I got them at Wal Mart's in the travel section of shampoos and stuff.
Permanent marker. I used Sharpie
pliers
scissors
thin handled paint brush.
small funnel
paper towels
lacquer. I use Deft gloss
shop spoon ( in my case it's a good spoon I ruined in the garage. You can use a plastic spoon as well.
Lacquer thinner of your choice.
A word to the wise. Nothing works like lacquer thinner to clean up lacquer. You'll ruin your brushes if you don't use lacquer thinner.
Step one
use the pliers to gently pull out the felt end of the magic marker and drop that into the 3 oz bottle.
Step two
Using the pliers. Grab the colored plastic end of the marker with the pliers and the handle of the marker with your other hand. Gently bend the marker back and forth till the color end gives way and pulls free from the handle end. You don't want to go to fast with this step. The ink tube will stay inside the color plastic end of the marker as you gently separate it from the handle.
This is for right handed folks. If your a lefty just reverse and go for it. Transfer the pliers still holding the color end and tube to your left hand. Stick the ink tube a small ways into the 3 oz bottle. Wile still holding it partly into the 3 oz bottle use the scissors to cut slits up one side of the ink tube. Lower the ink tube down into the 3 oz bottle as you make your cuts. When you get to the color part of the pen use the scissors to pull the ink tube out of the pen end and into the 3 oz bottle.
Step 4
Using the small funnel and shop spoon fill the bottle 2/3s full of lacquer.
Step 5
Using the thin paint brush handle. Push the handle end into the end of the ink tube in the 3 oz bottle till the ink tube bends and gives way. Use the brush handle to steep the ink tube like you would a tea bag. To remove the paint brush handle from the tube I use a finger to block the ink tube from leaving the 3 oz bottle wile I pull up with the paint brush. Re cap the 3 oz bottle and shake. Store and let steep for a few days before using.
step 6.
Use lacquer thinner to clean the handle of the paint brush. Paper towels to clean off your hands.
putrid
08-09-2008, 10:01 PM
Now that you have your colors you'll need to know the best way to apply the lacquer. I get the best results when using a stiff bristled brush. Instead of stroking I dab the color on. The lacquer will go on thick giving the best color. Practice with this. To much lacquer and it will run.
Don't shake the lacquer before using it. Bubbles will show up in the coat and are impossible to get rid of. They will dry in place.
I use lacquer thinner between colors to clean the brush. I find it's best to have a bit of uncolored lacquer ( I use my shop spoon ) to dip the clean brush in. Use a paper towel to clean this off. This is a good way to clear the brush of any thinner.
For a washed out or lighter color I've mixed some of the tinted lacquer with regular lacquer. Gives a nice look. This is best done with the darker colors.
bethene
08-10-2008, 07:04 AM
thanks Putrid for the infor, I will try this for sure, when I get working on my christmas things!!have you used this method on just silver or on clear glass?
putrid
08-10-2008, 05:02 PM
Bethene, not on clear glass yet. Just silvered glass. I've found that the tinted lacquer looks better on silver plastic or silver spray painted objects. It's either the color isn't saturated enough or it's the brushes I'm using. Can't seem to get a smooth one coat finish on glass.
Been playing around with it. Did a nut cracker. Looks kinda cool. When I sprayed it silver I taped the face off so I wouldn't have to re paint it. I've spray painted an Angel candle but haven't lacquered it up yet.
More techniques.
Do you have old plastic shaped ornaments like Santas, Angles, People, animals and the like?. First clean them up with soap and water. Sand off any real ruff seams. Spray paint with silver. Let dry. Now use your tinted lacquer to make these cheepo plastic shapes look like old glass.
For a soft pastel look try brushing the lacquer on a mat finished ( unshiny) silver plastic ornament. Use a soft bristle brush for this.
Stained glass look on silvered glass and plastic ornaments. Use dimensional paint meant for clothing to draw out the lead lines for the picture. Then paint in with the colored lacquer. Ideas for shapes,
Angels
Holly and berries
Poinsettias
Winter scenes like a church or house with snow.
The simpler and less detailed you make these the better they look on the tree.
Painting the lacquer over white looks like shiny paint. Looses all old ornament effect.
When I stop experimenting and start doing ornaments to keep I'll take some shots and post them. I do have some partially done keepers that look REAL good.
Carrie
08-10-2008, 08:30 PM
Putrid, thanks so much for all the information on this. I am hoping to find some time to give it a whirl because I have a ton of sharpies and ornaments that could use refurbishing. Only thing I need is the lacquer. This sounds so great and I'm excited to see your pictures!
Sickie Ickie
08-11-2008, 01:34 PM
Waaaay cool to hear that you are still experimenting with this, Putrid! Seems to me like you have a new technique everyone will soon use. Kinda like Monster Mud!
Let me know when you have pics! This will be on SP for sure!
bethene
08-11-2008, 06:57 PM
Sounds great Putrid, I probably havesome plastic shapes around here! I think all my glass is clear not silvered though. I will have to go through all my ornaments, . How do you get the paint off your ornaments, and keep the silvering?
putrid
08-11-2008, 07:16 PM
Thanks for the comp Sickie Ickie. Guess we could call it " ornament mud'!! JK LOL As soon as I get my computer back I plan on redoing a small site. As soon as it's up I'll PM ya so you can add it to your Santa Projects site. I'm really happy with the way this stuff is turning out. And so far I haven't had any sticking issues like I've had with glass paint.
Bethene, the silver is on the inside of the ball. If you have older scratched up balls rubbing alcohol and a paper towel will do the trick. I've used lacquer thinner to get the glue and glitter off of some of the cheapies.
Sickie Ickie
08-12-2008, 07:00 AM
I especially like the no sticking issue. So many times things like this wind up "tacky"
putrid
08-12-2008, 11:22 AM
Dude you have no idea how many cool looking ornaments I've had to toss because of the tacky issue. Spend hours on it one year just to have it ruined the next.
Sickie Ickie
08-13-2008, 10:56 AM
Been there. Even tried artist fixing spray an hair spray to no avail.
putrid
08-13-2008, 06:31 PM
I was thinking about trying an experiment with this just to make sure it doesn't stick. I'm going to cover a glass ball thickly with lacquer. Let it cure. Then wrap it tightly in toilet paper and hang it from a rafter in the attic. Still got the rest of August and Sep. before it cools down completely. Or I could even wrap it and stick it in the oven at 200+. I've baked cardboard and paper as cone shapes with sculply at 275 without burning.
Reading from ya Sickie Ickie got me thinking about Ceram Coat. (Have you used it on that Santa you found yet? ) Faces were always done with oil. I was kinda curious if the Ceram Coat would work better for faces and designs on ornaments. More stuff for the lab. Which happens to be my kitchen table. Was thinking of putting the leafs in so I'll have more lab room. LOL
putrid
08-14-2008, 07:16 AM
Results from the first 'see it it's sticky' experiment.
Subject
First two plastic ornaments treated with tinted lacquer.
One with a mirror finish, one with a mat finish.
Cure time for the lacquer.
about 3 weeks.
Preparations.
Both ornaments were allowed to heat up to about 120. Then most of the structure was wrapped tightly with toilet paper. Leaving some areas exposed to the open heat to allow more heat transfer into the plastic. The wrapping was perposely made tighter than what would normally be done to insure more contact between the lacquer and paper.
Heat and duration.
Ornaments were placed into a 220 oven. Stayed at this temp. for 1 hour. The heat was turned off. Oven door remained closed. The ornaments stayed in the oven for approx. 10 hours.
Structural condition
Both ornaments show signs of heat stress and degradation. The matt finish one has the most damage. Some of it's surface turned white. The small hoop at the top of this ornament has also partially melted.
Visual condition of the tinted lacquer.
Some color degradation on the matt ornament. Pitting on the mirror finished one.
And most important of all Sticking.
Slight sticking on very few edges. All but one area was easily removed by lightly rubbing my finger across it once. The melted hoop had the worst of it. The paper is imbedded into the lacquer.
Lacquer integrity under the toilet paper.
Some portions of the lacquer were removed from the open exposure to radiant heat. Only one area had a very light color transfer to the paper. The transfer area of toilet paper didn't stick to the ornament. Possibly caused from the excess heat.
Reality check
No attic will reach 220. Your ceiling paint will curl. LOL
There is a big difference between a one time exposure to exposure over time.
Retrospect.
At that temp the lacquer damage resembles the damage you would get from years of exposure to heat. I've scrubbed hard on the damaged areas with soap and water. Very small areas of the lacquer was removed. But no chipping like you would get on a glass ball. As this experiment is I think it's a success. The amount of damage to the plastic and lacquer is far greater than what would normally happen. If it takes that much damage to cause slight sticking then normal heat exposure shouldn't cause any at all.
Guess I'll have to do one with water. Only I'm not sure how I can keep the toilet paper on the ornaments under water. Guess I could soak them and then dry em in the oven.
Lab work is never done. You get close to one answer just to get 10 more questions. LOL
Sickie Ickie
08-14-2008, 10:54 AM
Putrid, we have to start calling you the Scientist!
putrid
08-14-2008, 06:59 PM
Or just Mad for short. LOL
All thow I feel the experiment was a success there is still the factor of time. The amount of time an object is stored in contact with it surroundings. None of my ornaments have ever been stored in an attic. They've all been in a climate controlled room. ( air conditioning and heating like the rest of the house. With the addition of a de humidifier in the basement) Even in this environment there was sticking.
To make this a fair experiment I'm going to do the same with an ornament I painted with 'glass paint' a few years ago. This ornament also has dimensional paint meant to be used on clothing. I'm not sure how hot a cloths dryer gets so this may not be a factore.
There is physical differences in the tinted lacquer and the glass paint I used. Where the lacquer lays perfectly flat the glass paint varies in thickness. This ornament was done years ago and left unwrapped in the craft room. ( an older experiment LOL) I use it but may have to paint a new one up for a more realistic trial. Most folks paint and store the same year. Usually within a month or two of making the ornament.
I'll take a shot and post it of the ornaments I've used. You've already seen the two plastic bows before they were baked. Back to the lab...LOL
putrid
08-14-2008, 07:07 PM
The pic of all three. The stained glass Angel ornament will soon be wrapped in toilet paper and baked like a ham. LOL
http://www.christmasfanclub.com/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=108
bethene
08-14-2008, 07:13 PM
those turned out beautiful, Putrid!!
putrid
08-15-2008, 07:18 AM
Thanks Bethene. The bows are just a bunch of colors I put on to see what they would look like. Even as is they do look kinda cool. LOL
Results form 2nd heat experiment.
The ornament I heat treated wile being wrapped tightly in toilet paper is the long Angel one in the middle of the above picture. Thihs experiment was carried out in the exact same way as the one above. There was a greater amount of structural damage to the plastic ornament. Possibly do more to the larger inner cavity size. I was concerned about the fabric paint however none of it was a factor in the poor results. All the toilet paper pulled away from the wings and face. ( not mentioned in the other post. The wings and face were colored in with fabric paint. Neither area had any sticking)
See picture
http://www.christmasfanclub.com/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=109
I'm kinda torn between being PO'd because I just ruined another ornament or happy because I didn't get these results with the tinted lacquer. LOL I ran water over it and then tried scrubbing the toilet paper off. Got most of it and some of the glass paint as well. I'll have to wait till it's dry to see how much of the toilet paper is still on it. It kinda went clear on me when it got wet.
In total truth I really can't say what will happen over time. The slight bit of sticking I did get with the lacquer does warrant some concern. Weather or not over time this would worsen or have no effect on the ornament I can't say. Most of a years worth of time is something I can't experiment over night with. LOL Judging by the results I did get between the two materials used to paint the plastics I'm more than confident stating the tinted lacquer is better.
Gona have to find something else to experiment with. I'm getting bord...LOL
Sickie Ickie
08-15-2008, 04:46 PM
Bored? You still need ten more years of experiments on this! :p
putrid
08-15-2008, 05:09 PM
LOL Sickie Ickie. Actually I have about 10 years or remaking ornaments that got ruined.
Figured I share a shot of the results of trying to get the imbedded toilet paper off of the ornament. Look closely and you can see in the upper left hand side the blue is completely missing. Along with the left side of the hair area and some of the red on the dress.
http://www.christmasfanclub.com/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=110
The rest of the toilet paper is deeply imbedded into the glass paint.
putrid
08-17-2008, 05:54 PM
I'm going to try another experiment with lacquer. This time instead of using the high gloss I'm going to tint some mat finish. Perhaps the mat finish will look better on glass than the gloss. Got some stained glass Angels on glass balls. Like the one I ruined above. The high gloss is ok but I think a mat would look better. Also used the same gold dimensional paint. Going to have to try it in black to make it look more like the old stained glass.
One thing I'd like to bring up in this thread is to tell ya'll not to try to unsilver a glass ball. If it's an older one your looking a Mercury. It's not worth the health risk. If you have ornaments that the silver is damaged beyond use toss them.
bethene
08-17-2008, 07:28 PM
thanks Putrid, good to remember about the mercury!!
I must of missed the reasons why, so I will ask a dumb question, why the toiletpaper whhen you put it in the oven, to protect it? What temp of a oven do you use??
putrid
08-18-2008, 01:42 PM
The toilet paper was used to see how bad the chemicals would stick to it. I wanted to use the weakest paper possible that could be used in storage. The oven was at 220 but only for an hour. I thought that the heat would draw out any moisture left in the finish ( glass paint or lacquer ). It's these residual chemicals that cause sticking wile the ornaments are in storage.
The reason for the experiments was to test the lacquer against the glass paint I've used in the past. I've had to toss plenty of ornaments I've done with the glass paint because of sticking to the paper they're wrapped and stored in. If the lacquer had preformed the same as the glass paint I would of consider it a failed idea. Hopefully the lacquer will store and last for years. Results over time is one experiment that takes time to do. LOL
bethene
08-18-2008, 06:30 PM
thanks Putrid!!!
putrid
08-24-2008, 07:29 PM
Some new notes from more trial and error. I've found that satin finish lacquer is to cloudy. But a combination of satin and gloss looks good on glass. So I'll have to shell out another $9 for some lacquer and still more for ink to make a set of semi gloss.
Still can't get this to look good over wide areas of glass, plastic or silver spray paint. But I'm still using small brushes. Going to have to get a good 1/2 inch brush to see what it'll do.
I have found that the color intensifies as some of the lacquer dries a bit in the brush. It tends to go on thicker. Dip a bit of the brush in the lacquer and give it a few moments. You'll only have to do that once at the start.
Despite what I've posted earlier soft bristle brushes are better.
Gloss looks best on shiny plastics, dull plastics and silver spray paint.
Semi gloss looks best on glass.
Satin doesn't look good on any of them. But could be used on glass as accents.
I'm using a tube of black "Tulip Matallics" dimensional fabric paint. If you can come across one called 'bead' it's better. Don't use the cheepy fabric paint in the little round plastic bottles. It's completely useless, runny and extremely hard to draw with. I'm using the black to mimic the lead from old stained glass windows. Then painted with the lacquer. My hands aren't as steady as they were. Need more practice to get smooth at this again. Once I get a few that look good I'll take a shot or two and post them.
Sickie Ickie
08-26-2008, 05:58 AM
The mad scientist is at work again. :)
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.10 Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.